(segue in italiano) Julian Roberts is a british fashion designer is the inventor of a garment pattern cutting method called ‘Subtraction Cutting’ and goes around the world on tour to demonstrate his technique. He became Professor at the University of Hertfordshire (Hatfield) in July 2004 at the age of 33 becoming the youngest professor in the UK and now lectures at MA Mixed Media Textile at the Royal College of Art in London. Subtraction Cutting is about designing with patterns, rather than creating patterns for designs and its basic premise is that the patterns cut do not represent the garments outward shape, but rather the negative spaces within the garment that make them hollow. I interviewed him some days ago to discover a bit more about his approach and explore his point of view on some other topics. Here’s the first part of the interview. Zoe Romano – How would you describe Subtraction Cutting to someone who doesn’t know much
Openwear
Let’s go open-source with digital patterns making
Susan Spencer Conklin is a networker, she’s not a programmer, but knows about programming, she’s not a designer but knows how to sew and in the last months she’s been giving presentations to invite developers to help create a suite of open source software to produce and modify clothing patterns in open data formats to match an individual’s body measurement and generate customized patterns as printable files. Current applications for pattern making are infact proprietary and expensive, require proprietary operating systems, and on top on that they are not designed to interoperate or give not much control on the creation process. An open source-solution would enable individuals and small labels designers to enter the market with lower investments costs and local markets would flourish more easily being able to share and exchange knowledge. And it’s not only a matter of business. Schools and educational environment would benefit of a software without paying multiple licenses and students would be involved in the
Interview with an engaged fashion designer
(segue in italiano) In the previous post, some days ago I talked about the work of designer Otto Von Busch
Hacking design and fashion with Otto
(segue in italiano) Three years ago, in an interview with We Make Money not Art, Otto Von Busch talked about