Julian and Subtraction Cutting – part 2

(segue in italiano) Here’s the second part (read the first part) of the interview to professor and designer Julian Roberts, exploring open-source, zero-waste and interdisciplinarity. Enjoy! Zoe Romano – Do you think open-source and technology (like osloom.org, low cost laser cutting, 3d printers ) are going to change how fashion mainly is conceived and produced? Julian Roberts – It’s definitely changing things already. As 3D printing becomes more accessible and the materials available to print in become more precious, durable and tactile, then it’s suitability to fashion is likely to rapidly grow. Currently they are useful tools for accessory and jewelry design, small component manufacture used in textile embellishment, and for integrating technology into textiles. I’m sure it will also transform both weaving and garment construction too in the very near future. The fact that 3D printing is layered from the ground upwards from an aerial viewpoint is of great interest to me and the way i construct clothes. Laser

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Julian and Subtraction Cutting – part 1

(segue in italiano) Julian Roberts is a british fashion designer is the inventor of a garment pattern cutting method called ‘Subtraction Cutting’ and goes around the world on tour to demonstrate his technique. He became Professor at the University of Hertfordshire (Hatfield) in July 2004 at the age of 33 becoming the youngest professor in the UK and now lectures at MA Mixed Media Textile at the Royal College of Art in London. Subtraction Cutting is about designing with patterns, rather than creating patterns for designs and its basic premise is that the patterns cut do not represent the garments outward shape, but rather the negative spaces within the garment that make them hollow. I interviewed him some days ago to discover a bit more about his approach and explore his point of view on  some other topics. Here’s the first part of the interview. Zoe Romano – How would you describe Subtraction Cutting to someone who doesn’t know much

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Let’s go open-source with digital patterns making

Susan Spencer Conklin is a networker, she’s not a programmer, but knows about programming, she’s not a designer but knows how to sew and in the last months she’s been giving presentations to invite developers to help create a suite of open source software to produce and modify clothing patterns in open data formats to match an individual’s body measurement and generate customized patterns as printable files. Current applications for pattern making are infact proprietary and expensive, require proprietary operating systems, and on top on that they are not designed to interoperate or give not much control on the creation process. An open source-solution would enable individuals and small labels designers to enter the market with lower investments costs and local markets would flourish more easily being able to share and exchange knowledge. And it’s not only a matter of business. Schools and educational environment would benefit of a software without paying multiple licenses and students would be involved in the

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